PATEK PHILIPPE YELLOW GOLD SELF-WINDING CALATRAVA BRACELET WATCH, REF. 5012/3J
PATEK PHILIPPE YELLOW GOLD SELF-WINDING CALATRAVA BRACELET WATCH, REF. 5012/3J
Patek Philippe 18K yellow gold self-winding ref. 5012/3J, made and sold in 1994
The Patek Philippe ref. 5012 stands out as a truly unique piece within the Calatrava collection. Produced for a short time between 1992 and 1995, and exclusively in yellow gold, this model is one of the rarest and most elusive, time-only Patek Philippe neo-vintage watches. Its dial, featuring bold Roman numerals, lends it a distinctive edge, almost avant-garde in comparison to the more traditionally understated designs typical of the Calatrava line.
Another standout feature is the extra-thick hands, which bring a bold, modern touch to the watch. They depart from the delicate, refined hands usually found on other contemporary time-only models, yet they still uphold Patek Philippe’s commitment to timeless design. This subtle yet impactful detail adds to the overall character of the timepiece.
The ref. 5012’s 7.5mm case thickness also sets it apart. It’s noticeably more robust than the slimmer profiles typical of watches from the period, giving it a commanding presence on the wrist without compromising on elegance. Inside, the Caliber 315 SC powers the watch, with a classic date window at 3 o’clock adding practical functionality.
What’s fascinating about this model is how it manages to blend Patek Philippe’s renowned elegance with a more daring, modern aesthetic. In many ways, it flies under the radar compared to some of the brand’s other models from the era. This makes it one of the most under-appreciated bracelet watches from that time, and a true pleasure to wear.
Watch specifications
Reference Number: 5012/3J
Production Year: 1994
Original Date of Sale: August 1994
Size: 33.5 mm
Material: 18K yellow gold
Dial Color: White with Roman numerals
Watch Movement: Caliber 315 SC
Accompanied By: Certificate of Origin
CSKU: 9010
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